Mary's Trip to Riga

By Mary McGovern

We flew direct with Air Baltic from Dublin to Riga on the Airbus A220, enjoying smooth connections in both directions. The journey was comfortable throughout. On arrival at Riga International Airport, it was only around a 30 minute trip into the heart of the city, making the whole journey remarkably straightforward.

Location

Riga is a calm and welcoming city with a mix of old buildings and modern areas. The Old Town is easy to explore on foot, and the Central Market shows everyday local life. With its riverside setting, simple charm, and relaxed pace, the Latvian capital is pleasant to visit.

What I Loved

Riga offers a pleasant mix of food, culture, and history, with plenty to see both in the city and beyond. In Old Riga Town, visitors can enjoy simple, hearty Latvian dishes and wander through its narrow streets, historic squares, and relaxed cafés. A short visit to the Concerto Piccolo at Riga Dome Cathedral is well worth the time; the concert lasts about twenty minutes, and tickets can be bought on the day. The cathedral’s huge organ, with its 7,000 pipes, creates a powerful sound that fills the entire space. Outside the city, Rundale Palace adds a grander touch to any trip. Once the summer residence of Ernst Johann von Biron, the Duke of Courland, it was designed by the Italian architect Francesco Rastrelli, known for his work on St Petersburg’s Winter Palace. Fully restored, the palace and its gardens now form one of Latvia’s most important Baroque and Rococo landmarks.

Activities & Places to See

Riga Old Town – A historic area founded in 1201, with cobbled streets and medieval buildings that make a walking tour a pleasant way to explore its long and interesting past.
Christmas Market – A lively seasonal market held from late November to December, offering festive food, crafts, and a warm atmosphere.
Rundale Palace – Latvia’s most notable 18th-century Baroque and Rococo palace, once the summer residence of Ernst Johann von Biron and now a fully restored museum with impressive rooms and gardens.
Art Nouveau Area – A district of large 19th-century family homes built for the wealthy, featuring beautifully decorated façades and an excellent museum showing how affluent families lived at the time.
Riga Motor Museum – Located about twenty minutes from the centre, this is the largest car museum in Europe and offers an interesting collection and history.
Zemgale Region – A southern landscape of wide fields where storks are often seen in summer, known for notable palaces and manors such as Jelgava Palace and Rundale Palace.
Jūrmala – A resort city famous for its natural resources, including mineral waters, pine forests, and a well-kept 25-kilometre white sand beach, with spa hotels ideal for rest and health-focused breaks.

Shopping & Nightlife

Riga offers a generous choice of shopping malls, along with many restaurants and local arts and craft shops, particularly around the Old Town. The dining scene ranges from simple cafés to smarter venues, giving visitors plenty of options throughout the day. The city does not have the same pub culture as Ireland or the UK, with only a small number of traditional pubs, but most restaurants are happy for guests to enjoy a drink without ordering food. This creates a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, and the mix of cosy interiors and charming streets makes evenings in Riga feel especially quaint and enjoyable.

Restaurants & Bars

Riga has several excellent dining options, with Kaļķu Vārti in the Old Town near Market Square offering a very pleasant lunch in a relaxed and charming setting. Close to the Christmas Market, Gutenbergs provides high-quality dishes and a lovely rooftop view over the historic centre. For a special occasion, the Michelin-starred FERMA stands out, serving outstanding food that is beautifully prepared. Together, these restaurants give visitors a great mix of flavours and experiences during their stay.

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